Nayakanga Peak Climbing

Duration
18 Days

Posted By
Mark Pines

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May 22, 2014 B+Michael, USA   
Dear Tandi,
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  • Overview
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Naya Kanga Peak also known as Ganja La Chuli is a popular trekking peak in Nepal situated in Langtang region. Langtang is a popular destination for climbing snow peaks and spectacular panoramic views of mountains in Nepal and Tibet. Easy access to the region and availability of several snow peaks scattered around for acclimatization make this region an ideal destination for mountaineers.
Many small peaks in this region which require no previous climbing experience are suitable for even trekkers to have little taste of what's like climbing in Nepal. Naya Kanga is an attractive peak rising to the west of the Ganja La (5,122m). Ascending to Ganja La or the summit of Naya Kanga offers the spectacular panoramic views of mountains in Nepal and Tibet including Langshisa Ri (6,370m), Pemthang Ri (6,836m), Shisapangma (8,046m), Langtang Lirung (7,425m), Pemthang Kapro Ri (6,830m) and Langtang II (6,571m). The normal route of ascent to Naya Kanga is via the north - east ridge over a line on ice and snow. We follow the route of Langtang trek to Kyangjin (3,749m) for the ascent of Naya Kanga. To the north above Kangjin, there are several hills that provide both the magnificent views and the acclimatization. North - east of Kyangjin Ri (4,700m), there are two peaks; Yala Peak (5, 500m) and Tsergo Peak (5,749m) that provide good climbing for acclimatization. 

Crossing the Langtang Khola below Kyangjin, we climb steeply along the ridge through a forest of rhododendron and juniper. Finally climbing more gently, we arrive at yak pastures of Ngegang at about 4000m. We continue following the trail to Ganja La through moraine climbing steeply. We leave Ganja La trail to climb steeply up yet more moraine to reach the eastern end of the glacier shelf beneath the north - east face of Naya Kanga. We set up the high camp here for the ascent. 

We cross the glacier shelf to the foot of a shallow colors heading to the north ridge. We climb the colors to the notch and the base of the ridge. Then we turn to the ice nose on the left which is only the technical section on the climb. Now the ridge widens and leads to a small col. on the east - west summit ridge and the summit is only 30m higher to the right. The climb near the summit should be done carefully. Normally, the ascent takes 5 - 7 hours from the high camp. For the return trek, we may follow Ganja La - Helambu route or take the same route back to Dhunche.
Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel, day at leisure. (A)

Day 2: Day at leisure/ Hotel. (A, B)

Day 3: Kathmandu - Syabru by bus. (A, B, L, D) 

Day 4: Ghoratabela. (A, B, L, D) 

Day 5: Langtang. (A, B, L, D) 

Day 6: Kyangjin Gompa (A, B, L, D) 

Day 7: Rest at Kyangjin. (A, B, L, D) 

Day 8: High camp at Yala Chhu. (A, B, L, D) 

Day 9: Yala peak summit - Kyangjin. (A, B, L, D) 

Day 10: Base Camp. (A, B, L, D) 

Day 11: High Camp. (A, B, L, D) 

Day 12: Summit - Base Camp. (A, B, L, D) 

Day 13: Kyangjin. (A, B, L, D) 

Day 14: Ghoratabela. (A, B, L, D) 

Day 15: Syabru. (A, B, L, D) 

Day 16: Syabru - Kathmandu by bus. (A, B, L) 

Day 17: Free day for shopping or relax (A, B)

Day 18: Drive - Airport for return flight (B)

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